I’m flying from China to India today, and so in a single day will touch the two countries that represent more than ten times the number of people in the United States of America. Many of us get our cultural awareness from Hollywood, like Slumdog Millionaire or Karate Kid, or from fear-spewing would-be politicians or liberal media. It dawns on me how little we know about the two countries that together make up half the world’s population. And though I’m a novice on the subject, and though a thousand words can hardly portray the reality of several images that have been inked into my brain over my ten business trips to China, I will still try my best to round out a little of the Food, the Culture, and the Comfort of this incredible country.
Images of Food
• The small fishing boat with bamboo floats and tiny motor on the long rudder pole that pull up alongside the three-deck tour boats and club their fish in just-in-time fashion to provide fresh lunch to the tourists (Li River in Guilin)
• Walking the several tables of the breakfast buffet in a remote hotel and wondering how many mornings this food has been recycled waiting for one of the three other apparent guests (or perhaps mold) to finally take it out of circulation (I have toast this particular day).
• Filling up on the first eight courses on the Lazy Susan as I realize I am only half-way into the dinner and I don’t want to offend my host by passing up the remaining dishes.
• That moment I realize I’ve taken a mouthful of meat that has chopped pieces of bone and waiting in veiled disgust to observe the entirely acceptable etiquette of casually spitting bone-pieces onto a side plate
• Apprehensively dipping into the community dishes with my fully-slurped pair of chopsticks after several other likewise slurped pairs have precede me in the dishes as they rotate around the lazy Susan
• The proud ceremonial presentation of the head of a rooster as the honored guest (aka yours truly) attempts a poorly translated polite decline to participate in the edible part of this tradition
• After a week of mindless sampling of local food to please my hosts, the sudden gurgle in my lower abdomen that foreshadows one of the most unpleasant twenty-four hour periods of my foreign travels
Images of Culture
• Listening to live Jazz played by eighty year-old European ex-pat regulars at a club at one of the grand hotels off the Bund in Shanghai.
• Watching the lighted boats parade up and down the river against the Jetson-like skyline of the Bund after a day of traveling along ancient and undeveloped countryside and wondering what century I’m actually in.
• Getting bratwurst for dinner in a German restaurant with an American ex-pat friend and momentarily forgetting what country I am in
• Old people listening to loud traditional music and dancing or doing tai chi (I suppose) in the dark downtown park near the Louis Vuitton building that hosts my company office
• Contemplating the meaning of the hearty laugh around the table as the group momentarily switches from English to Chinese for a short epilogue on a story someone just told in English
Images of Comfort
• The bicyclist in downtown Shanghai with ten feet high mounts of recyclable cardboard or textiles or plastics.
• The headlight-free moped in the dark rain with husband, wife, child and with the umbrella taped to the handle bar
• Wading into an intersection with sixteen possible routes while bicyclists and pedestrians and mopeds and cars perform an intricate dance that I cannot decipher but that consistently occurs without mishap.
• Riding with a driver that doesn’t speak English several hours west of Hong Kong, in air that is so dark there are no stars or streetlights or apartment lights, and almost no cars, and rounding a street corner with the headlights flashing across dozens of faces like lifeless mannequins in a dark storefront window, staring at the headlights that momentarily interrupt their dark and silent existence.
• Freezing in a thin sport jacket in an unheated meeting room in the middle of winter wishing I had either thicker coat or thicker skin.
• The gray-on-gray countryside of my three-hour car ride after a fifteen hour flight takes me through the dusk-like sky past rows of empty gray twenty-floor apartment buildings built for the planned urban migration that hasn’t yet happened here yet in this landscape that seems today has never seen a ray of sun.
• The orange-brown unnatural tint to the air hanging thick over Nanjing as I contemplate a run along the ancient wall near the lake, as the sun gives up on visiting (but unfortunately for my later pneumonia, I do not).
I will not soon forget these and other images, that collectively drive me to contemplate life conditions of those that were born into another culture, that despite the entitled leanings of some born (not of their own accord I guess) a childhood “dig” through the other side of the world. Now I’m leaving one country five times the size of the United States to visit another one largely down-trodden by greed, corruption, and wrong-headed politicians and therefore momentarily less important to our American psyche. And I’m wondering what new images might burn alongside these.
Kevin Dean, January 31, 2016